For generations of travellers, the experience of arriving in Kathmanduhas been something of a rude awakening from pre-arrival perceptions ofNepal as a land of mantras, mountain winds and chiming temple bells. The mantras, mountains and monasteries are there, and in abundance, but life in Kathmandu has been long been blighted by its chaotic road network, and the knock-on effects of traffic jams, vehicle noise and pollution.
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